Tunisia Travel Podcast with Rania Ben Salah
Tunisia Travel Podcast with Rania Ben Salah explores slow travel through Tunisia, from Tunis and the northern mountains to Kairouan and the Sahara-edge oasis of Tozeur. Host Rania Ben Salah lives in Tunisia and spends two years moving between cities, coastlines, and smaller towns, following the seasons. Each episode focuses on how the Mediterranean location, long imperial history, and varied terrain shape daily life. The show returns to familiar places in different seasons, letting landscapes and local rhythms guide the journey.
Épisodes
Matmata Pit Houses and the Olive Harvest
Day four in Matmata. I walk the edge of the Jebel Dahar, navigate the bureaucracy of New Matmata, and watch the olive harvest begin while the autumn heat finally breaks.
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Matmata pit houses and the olive harvest
Rania settles into day three in Matmata, exploring the troglodyte pits of Ancienne, navigating the bureaucracy of New Matmata, and watching the autumn olive harvest begin.
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Matmata pit houses and the October olive harvest
Rania settles into day two in Matmata, navigating the divide between Old and New Matmata, exploring the troglodyte architecture, and tasting local street food while discussing the logistics of living in the Dahar escarpment.
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Matmata move and troglodyte pit houses
We drive two hours from Tataouine to the Matmata hills. The air is cooler, the olive harvest is starting, and we settle into a cave room in Old Matmata while sorting residence papers in the new town.
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Tataouine final day ksour dust and bank stamps
Rania spends her last full day in Tataouine before heading north. She visits the bank for residence paperwork, navigates the local market, and reflects on the economic tensions between oil revenues and tourism.
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Tataouine Evacuation Day and the October Chill
Rania spends her final full day in Tataouine on Tunisia's Evacuation Day, navigating the quiet streets of the French garrison town, checking residence paperwork, and reflecting on the region's shifting economy as autumn deepens.
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Tataouine Market Dust and the October Chill
Rania navigates the Tataouine Sunday souk, checks on her residence permit paperwork at the bank, and reflects on the shifting economy of the deep south.
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Tataouine Market Dust and the Dahar Ridge Walk
Rania navigates the Sunday souk in Tataouine, hikes the Chenini to Douiret ridge, and reflects on the local economy and residence permit process.
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Tataouine Market Dust and the Dahar Ridge Walk
Rania navigates the Sunday souk in Tataouine, hikes the Chenini to Douiret ridge, and reflects on the local economy and residence permit process.
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Tataouine market dust and the Dahar ridge walk
I explore the Sunday souk in Tataouine, hike the Chenini to Douiret ridge, and break down the real cost of living in Tunisia's deep south.
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Climbing the Dahar ridge at dawn
Rania hikes the ancient trail between Chenini and Douiret, navigating steep stone paths and watching the autumn light hit the ksour. She breaks down the costs of the walk, the bus fare from Tataouine, and the coffee that fuels the climb.
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Tataouine ksour ridge walk and autumn dust
Rania walks the Dahar ridge from Chenini to Douiret, navigating steep stone paths and ancient granaries. She breaks down the costs of a local meal, transit, and entry fees while reflecting on Star Wars tourism and the region's economic reality.
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Tataouine ksour ridge walk and autumn dust
Rania walks the Dahar ridge from Chenini to Douiret, navigating the logistics of her residence permit and reflecting on the local economy and Star Wars tourism impact.
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Tataouine ksour ridge walk and autumn dust
Rania walks the cliff villages of Chenini and Douiret, navigates banking for her residence card, and reflects on the Star Wars economy in deep southern Tunisia.
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Ksour of the Dahar ridge and Star Wars ghosts
Rania explores the cliff-side villages of Chenini and Douiret, navigates the economics of Star Wars tourism in Tataouine, and checks on her residence permit progress.
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Tataouine ksour and the Saharan frontier
Rania moves from Medenine to Tataouine, exploring the Dahar ksour trail, the Star Wars connection, and daily life in the deep south.
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Medenine Ksar Vaults and the Dahar Mountains
Rania navigates her final full day in Medenine, securing her residence permit paperwork and preparing for a Dahar mountain trip. She explores the ghorfas of the ksar, visits Café 8 Oz for coffee, and reflects on the town's history and resilience.
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Medenine Ksar Vaults and the Dahar Mountains
Rania spends her final full day in Medenine, navigating bureaucracy for her residence permit, exploring the ksar vaults and weekly souk, discussing local grief and resilience with a friend, and planning a trip to the Dahar mountains.
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Medenine Ksar Vaults and the Dahar Mountains
Rania explores the honeycomb vaults of the Medenine ksar, navigates the weekly souk economy, and plans a trip to the Dahar mountain villages while managing residence paperwork.
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Medenine Ksar Vaults and the Dahar Mountains
Rania explores the ghorfas of the old ksar, checks on her residence permit status, and plans a trip to the Dahar mountains while reflecting on the region's history and current mood.
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Medenine Ksar Vaults and the Dahar Mountains
Rania explores the stacked honeycomb vaults of Medenine's ksar, navigates the weekly souk economy, and plans a trek into the Dahar mountain villages while waiting for her residence permit.
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Medenine Ksar Vaults and the Dahar Mountains
Rania explores the honeycomb ghorfas of Medenine's old ksar, walks the Djeffara plain toward the Dahar mountains, and reflects on the region's resilience after a difficult summer.
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Medenine Ksar Vaults and the Djeffara Plain
Rania settles into Medenine for eight days, exploring the honeycomb ghorfas of the old ksar, navigating residence paperwork, and reflecting on the town's history and current mood against the backdrop of the Djeffara plain.
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Medenine Ksar Vaults and the Djeffara Plain
Rania arrives in Medenine from Djerba, exploring the ghorfas of the old ksar, navigating the weekly souk on the Djeffara plain, and reflecting on the town's history as a granary and a WWII battleground.
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Djerba Last Day: Causeway, Souk, and Sea Calm
Rania spends her final full day in Djerba before moving south. She navigates the medina for supplies, reflects on the historical significance of El Ghriba, and watches kitesurfers at Aghir as the summer season ends.
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Djerba Last Day: Souk, Synagogue and Sea Calm
On the final full day in Djerba, Rania navigates the Houmt Souk medina for last-minute supplies, visits the El Ghriba synagogue to reflect on island faiths, and watches kitesurfers at Aghir before the autumn calm sets in.
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Djerba Day Eight: The Causeway, The Souk, and The Calm
Rania navigates the final stretch of her first summer arc in Djerba. She secures the bank attestation for her residence permit, explores the harbour life of Houmt Souk, and reflects on the island's unique identity as the off-season settles in.
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Djerba Day Seven: The Souk, The Synagogue, and The Sea
Day seven on Djerba. I walk the Houmt Souk medina for the final time before the season turns, check the status of my residence card at the police station, and head to Aghir to watch the kitesurfers catch the autumn wind.
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Djerba Day Six: The Souk, The Synagogue, and The Sea
Day six on the island means deep dives into the Houmt Souk medina, a visit to the El Ghriba synagogue in Erriadh, and kitesurfing gear at Aghir. I break down the daily costs of island life, check on my residence permit status, and look ahead to the All On Sea Festival.
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Djerba Kitesurfing, Synagogue History, and Island Calm
Day five in Djerba: navigating the kitesurfing winds at Aghir, reflecting on Jewish-Muslim history at El Ghriba, and planning the autumn arc from this UNESCO island.
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Djerba Day Four: The Causeway, The Souk, and The Calm
Day four on Djerba means navigating the Roman causeway traffic, hunting for the best brik in Houmt Souk, and reflecting on why this island feels like a different country. We talk about the water crisis, the cost of living, and the quiet magic of the medina.
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Djerba Harbour Life and the Olive Press
Day three in Djerba. I navigate the Houmt Souk souk, visit El Ghriba, and check on my residence permit while reflecting on the island's unique history.
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Djerba Harbour Life and the Olive Press
Rania explores Houmt Souk’s fishing port, navigates water shortages, visits El Ghriba synagogue, and reflects on Djerba’s unique island identity and history.
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Djerba Arrival: The Causeway and the Calm
Rania moves from Mahdia to Djerba, crossing the Roman causeway into Houmt Souk. We explore the island's quiet harbour, check the cost of living in the south, and look ahead to kitesurfing season.
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Mahdia Last Day: Cap Africa and the Pending Card
Rania spends her final full day in Mahdia before moving south to Djerba. She walks the wild rocks of Cap Africa, visits the marine cemetery, and reflects on the quiet contrast between the working fishing port and the tourist corniche while waiting for her residence card approval.
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Mahdia Last Full Day: Cap Africa and Silk
Rania spends her final full day in Mahdia before moving south. She visits the wild rocks of Cap Africa, buys silk in the medina, and sorts out her residence permit paperwork.
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Mahdia Day Five: The New Garden and the Pending Card
Day five in Mahdia brings a walk through the newly inaugurated Femmedina garden, a visit to the Great Fatimid Mosque, and a check on the status of my residence permit. I also navigate the quiet contrast between the working fishing port and the calm corniche.
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Mahdia Water Cuts and the Fishing Port Dawn
Day four in Mahdia. The sea is warm, the silk workshops are humming, and the water taps are dry. I navigate the dawn auction at the fishing port, check on my residence permit paperwork, and walk the quiet Corniche as summer gives way to autumn.
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Mahdia dawn auctions and the silk medina
Day three in Mahdia. We navigate the water shortages, visit the bustling fishing port at dawn to buy sardines, and explore the historic silk weaving workshops in the medina while checking on residence permit progress.
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Mahdia Dawn Fishing Port and Silk Medina
Rania wakes before dawn at Mahdia's working fishing port to watch the sardine auction, then explores the medina's silk workshops and the quiet contrast between resort life and local routine.
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Mahdia Arrival: Water Cuts and Silk Weaving
Rania moves from Sousse to Mahdia. She navigates the train journey, checks into her flat amidst water shortages, explores the fishing port at dawn, and examines the local silk workshops in the medina.
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Sousse Last Day: Medinat Walls and Moving South
Rania spends her final full day in Sousse, navigating the humid late-summer heat, sorting residence permit paperwork at BIAT, and exploring the medina before heading south toward Djerba.
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Sousse Last Day: El Jem Ruins, Medina Walls, and Moving South
Rania spends her final full day in Sousse before heading south to Djerba. She navigates the heat of the medina, visits the Ribat for a final panoramic view, eats brik by the harbour, and reflects on life as a resident.
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Sousse High Season Heat and El Jem Day Trip
Day six in Sousse: navigating the medina souks, securing bank paperwork for the residence permit, and a day trip to the Roman amphitheatre at El Jem. We discuss costs, heat management, and the reality of living here in September.
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Sousse Medina Walls and the Late Summer Heat
Rania navigates the labyrinth of Sousse's UNESCO medina, checks on her residence permit paperwork at BIAT, and enjoys a quiet evening by the sea before a day trip to El Jem.
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Sousse Medina Walls and the Late Summer Heat
Rania navigates the UNESCO-listed medina of Sousse on day four, exploring the Ribat watchtower and the Great Mosque. She sorts out her bank attestation for the residence permit, eats brik at a local counter, and plans a day trip to El Jem.
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Sousse Medina Walls and the Late Summer Heat
Rania explores the UNESCO-listed medina of Sousse, climbs the Ribat for a panoramic view, and navigates the practicalities of living in Tunisia's coastal heart during the tail end of summer.
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Sousse Medina Walls, Ribat Views, and September Heat
Rania explores the UNESCO-listed medina of Sousse, climbs the Ribat for panoramic views, and navigates the practicalities of living in Tunisia's coastal capital during early September.
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Sousse Arrival: Medina Walls, Ribat Views, and September Heat
Rania settles into her new Sousse flat after the drive from Nabeul. She walks the UNESCO medina walls, checks the Ribat, eats brik by the harbour, and explains the real cost of living in Tunisia's coastal capital.
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Nabeul Last Day Pottery Kilns and Djerba Road
Rania packs her bags in Nabeul on the final day of August. She visits the pottery quarter to buy a second-hand bowl, sorts out bank paperwork for her residence permit, and eats ojja at Restaurant El Bahi before the long drive south to Djerba begins.
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Nabeul's Last Day, a Broken Kiln, and a Swim
Rania spends her final day in Nabeul watching a potter at work, discovering a broken kiln and the cost of craft, plus a last swim at the Corniche. She also navigates a bank run for her residence permit and reflects on the town's summer rhythms before heading south to Djerba.
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Nabeul's Last Sunday: Pottery, Power Cuts, and a Lemonade
On her final Sunday in Nabeul, Rania visits the pottery quarter before the heat, navigates a power cut and a water shortage scare, and enjoys a calm seaside lunch. She reflects on the cost of living, the town's rhythms, and what the journey south will bring.
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A Quiet Friday in Nabeul's Empty Souk
Rania wakes before dawn to catch Nabeul's famous Friday souk before the heat, finds it thinner after the summer rush, and spends a slow day visiting the Dar Chaabane stone carvers and the Nabeul Archaeological Museum before a final grilled fish dinner at Restaurant El Bahi. Reflections on the Cap Bon's rhythm as the season turns.
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Nabeul's Pottery Quarter and a Farewell Swim
Rania spends her last full day in Nabeul in the pottery quarter, watches a master at work, buys a bowl, and takes a final swim at the Corniche before heading south. She also checks in on her residence permit and reflects on the week's rhythms and costs.
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El Haouaria's Sea Caves and a Zgougou Morning
Rania takes a louage to El Haouaria on the northern tip of Cap Bon, explores the sea caves and the falconry festival remnants, then returns to Nabeul for a Mawlid treat of assida zgougou and an evening concert at the Théâtre de Plein Air.
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Neapolis's ruins and a pottery morning
Rania spends a quiet morning among the Roman fish-salting vats of Neapolis, watches a potter throw clay in the old quarter, and hunts down a cheap lunch, a carton of milk, and the best shade in Nabeul.
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Nabeul's Friday Souk and a Punic Morning
Rania wakes before dawn for Nabeul's legendary Friday market, then heads to the ancient Punic city of Kerkouane. She talks pottery, zgougou prices, and the cost of a day out on the Cap Bon.
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Nabeul: From Tabarka with a Van Full of Clay
Rania arrives in Nabeul, unpacking three hours of road travel and moving into a pottery town at the tail of summer. She navigates a heatwave, a Mawlid-market crowd, and the logistics of a new base.
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The Cork Museum, Last Light, and Leaving Tabarka
Rania spends her final hours in Tabarka at the Cork Museum and a quiet café, reflects on the week's costs and the town's quiet resilience, and catches a last glimpse of the Needles before the louage south. A practical look at what a day in this green corner of Tunisia really costs.
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Tabarka's Last Swim and the Road South
Rania spends her final day in Tabarka with a swim at the Corniche, a coffee at Gamra café, grilled sardines at Restaurant Côte d'Azur, and reflections on the town's quiet resilience before heading south to Djerba.
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The Last Tabarka Morning and the Road to Djerba
Rania spends her final morning in Tabarka with a swim off the Corniche, a last café ritual, and a final brik by the marina. Then she takes the louage south, reflecting on the green northwest and what it costs to live there, before the long road to Djerba.
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The Needles, a Fort, and a Last Swim
Rania takes a final snorkel at the Needles of Tabarka, explores the Genoese fort at sunset, and reflects on a week of cork forests, Roman villas, and the quiet economy of Tunisia's green northwest before heading south.
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The Cork Forests of Ain Draham and a Honey Morning
Rania takes a louage up into the cool cork-oak mountains of Ain Draham, visits the Cork Museum, and tastes the forest's wild honey. Back in Tabarka, she deals with the August water shortage and reflects on the cost of escaping the heat.
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Bulla Regia's Underground Roman Villas
Rania takes a louage inland from Tabarka to Bulla Regia, wandering the underground Roman villas and their remarkable mosaic floors. She reflects on the cost of the trip, the cool of the buried rooms, and the quiet politics of a site that history forgot to mention.
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Tabarka's Underwater Coral Gardens
Rania dives into the coral-rich waters off Tabarka, explores the Needles, checks in at the Genoese fort, and shares the town's summer rhythm, costs, and the practical side of life in this green corner of Tunisia.
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Coral, Cork, and the Cooling Mountains of Tabarka
Rania leaves Bizerte for the green northwest, arriving in Tabarka just as the summer heat peaks. She explores the Genoese fort, watches the coral divers, and takes a first cooling drive toward the cork-oak forests of Ain Draham. A day of history, sea, and a slower rhythm.
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The Last Bizerte Morning and the Louage South
Rania's final day in Bizerte: a last fricassé at Hippo Café, a final walk through the fish market and the Andalusian quarter, the practicalities of the louage station, and her reflections on a city that never wanted to be a tourist stop. She closes the Bizerte chapter and heads south toward Djerba.
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Cap Blanc, the Last Swim, and a Quiet Goodbye
Rania spends her final full day in Bizerte with a morning coffee ritual at the Old Port, a long swim off the Corniche at Sidi Salem, and a last slow walk through the Andalusian quarter before packing for the journey south. She reflects on what a month in this working port city has taught her about pace, cost, and belonging.
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Women's Day in Bizerte: A Quiet Celebration
On Tunisia's Women's Day, Rania explores Bizerte's quieter corners, from a women-only café to the Corniche, reflecting on the day's meaning and the cost of simple pleasures. She also checks in on her residence permit and plans the journey south.
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Plan your trip to Tunisia: eSIM & data · Tours &a
The Utica Mosaics Before the Women's Day Heat
On the eve of Women's Day, Rania takes a louage south to the Phoenician ruins of Utica, walks among Roman mosaics in the afternoon heat, and returns to Bizerte for a quiet evening of brik and harbour light, reflecting on the deep layers of history beneath her new home.
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Plan your trip to Tunisia: eSIM & data ·
The Day Bizerte Slowed Down
Rania takes a proper rest day in Bizerte. A late morning lablabi at Lablebi JABERI, a quiet wander through the Andalusian quarter, and a long evening at the Old Port. She talks about the cost of a simple day here, the Women's Day holiday, and what it means to feel the city's rhythm instead of just visiting it.
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Cap Angela and the Northernmost Point
Rania marks Women's Day with a drive to Cap Angela, Africa's northernmost point, then returns to Bizerte for a sunset brik by the Old Port. She reflects on the region's fire season, the cost of a simple day, and the quiet rhythm of a working port city in August.
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Plan your trip to Tunisia: eSIM & dat
The Lift Bridge at Dawn
Rania spends her second day in Bizerte chasing the morning fish auction, climbing the Spanish Fort for sunrise views, and discovering the city's canal rhythms. She tries lablabi as a sandwich, learns about the planned Ghar El Melh reforestation, and catches the festival's closing night concert by the Old Port.
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Bizerte: The Northernmost Port and the Sea Breeze
Rania moves from Tunis to Bizerte, the breezy port city at Africa's northern edge. She navigates the journey up the A4, checks into a hotel near the Old Port, walks the Kasbah ramparts, explores the Andalusian quarter, and tests the local theory that Bizerte's lablabi is the best in the country.
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The Last Morning in Tunis Before the South
Rania spends her final day in Tunis with a slow morning coffee, a last wander through the medina, and a seaside lunch in La Marsa, before packing and planning the journey south. Practical notes on costs, transport, and the paperwork that's still pending.
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Plan your trip to Tunisia: eSIM & data · Tours & ti
The Last Day in Tunis, a Slow Goodbye
On her final full day in Tunis before heading south, Rania takes a slow morning in the medina, visits the Bardo Museum's mosaics, and enjoys a last dinner in La Marsa, reflecting on the paperwork, the people, and the rhythms of a city that's starting to feel like home.
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Plan your trip to Tunisia: eSIM & d
The Carthage Ticket and the Evening Air
Rania returns to the medina for a practical errand, buys a ticket for the Carthage Festival, and settles into the rhythm of a Tunisian summer evening with a cheap and perfect dinner.
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Plan your trip to Tunisia: eSIM & data · Tours & tickets · Airport transfers · Car rental · Travel insurance · Hotels & full
Carthage Festival Nights and the Art of Doing Nothing
Rania takes a much-needed slow day in Tunis: a late breakfast of brik, a walk through Sidi Bou Said's blue-and-white streets, and the evening's big decision — whether to brave the Carthage International Festival crowd or find a quieter corner of the city.
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Plan your trip to Tunisia: eSIM & data · Tours &a
Bank Cards, Brik, and the Evening Festival Circuit
Rania gets her bank card, battles the August heat with a cold drink at a slick coffee shop, and figures out the nightly festival circuit — from Carthage's ancient theatre to a neighbourhood arts space in Tunis. Real prices, real logistics, and a first taste of the city's summer nights.
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Tunis Flat Hunting and the August Admin Pause
Rania hunts for a flat in Tunis before the August slowdown, dodges a sandstorm, navigates the souks for household goods, and lands a rooftop dinner. Plus the real cost of settling in the capital.
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Plan your trip to Tunisia: eSIM & data · Tours & tickets · Airport transfers · Car rental · Travel insurance · Hote
